Not far from the high-tech hubs of San Francisco and the vineyard crowds of Napa lies a nature reserve that produces some of the country’s best oysters.
The Tomales Bay estuary is a biodiversity hot spot and home to bivalves that feed on a constant upwelling of nutrients from the crisp, cold, well-oxygenated waters flowing in from the Pacific Ocean.
“For the most part, good shellfish-growing areas are pretty damn beautiful,” says John Finger, co-founder of Hog Island Oyster Co., which has been operating on the bay’s eastern shore for 40 years. “Since these places are healthy enough to grow oysters that are safe enough to eat, they become archetypes of a sound environment.”
The region’s oystering roots date to the Coast Miwok peoples, who harvested shellfish—possibly whelks misidentified as oysters or clams—for millennia. But while Northern California’s modern oyster industry dates to the 19th century, it was perpetuated by an influx of Croatian fisher folk starting in the early 20th century.
Now a new generation of restaurateurs and oyster farmers are reviving the bay’s heritage. Travelers can learn how these early settlers inspired this peaceful seaside of fish shacks and oyster farms. Here’s how to visit.
While the Olympia is considered the West Coast’s sole native oyster, historic accounts indicate that the species appeared in Tomales Bay in the 1870s, when swashbuckling oystermen shipped them in from Washington State. The Olympia’s coin-like size and coppery flavor motivated the export of sweeter, meatier bivalves from the East Coast, via the new Transcontinental Railway. Upon arrival, these new shellfish were plunged into Tomales Bay, spawning a lucrative industry in one of the prettiest places in the state.
“Back then, when people in nearby San Francisco wanted fresh oysters, they had to go out to places where it was clean enough to grow them,” says local historian and author Dewey Livingston. “Tomales Bay was perfect, and still is. That’s what practically generated all of these restaurants on the shore.”
These days, five oyster farms on the bay cultivate diverse species like the Pacific (characterized by an umami note), Atlantic (vegetal in flavor), and Kumamoto (melony on the palate). They’re supplied year round to regional restaurants, including neighboring fish shacks founded by Croatian fishers, who recognized a similar merroir (terroir’s marine equivalent) between their native Adriatic Sea and Tomales Bay.
(Your love of fresh oysters can help the planet.)
Established in 1931, Nick’s Cove is the oldest fish shack on the shore and remained popular with sport fishers, hunters, and travelers, even after founding couple Nick and Frances Kojich retired around 1950. The renovated property retains
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“They say you can hear the northern lights crackle. Even after years of living amongst them, I’ve only heard it once,” says Dave Daley, a long-distance dog sledder and Métis tour guide based in Churchill, Canada. He was 250 miles north of home when it happened, crossing the Hudson Bay as his dogs stopped to look at the display, spanning shades of pink, green, and white. “The lights made a wall in front of us, and for 10 minutes we were in a trance. Why did they appear at this moment? It was my ancestors making sure I got to my destination safely.”
From eerie sandstone moonscapes and jagged granite towers to rare, endangered wildlife and some of the tallest, oldest trees in the world, California's national parks encompass a multitude of singular and beloved natural majesties.
As my train heads north-west from Madrid towards the green hills of Asturias, I eagerly await views of the lush landscape – but instead, I’m plunged into darkness. A new series of tunnels is leading me to the northern region’s capital, Oviedo, and among them is the seventh-longest in Europe: at 15 miles, it’s a complex work of engineering that cuts through the Cantabrian Mountains.
If you’re like a lot of parents with teenagers, you’re acutely aware that quality time with your brood is limited. It won’t be long before your older kids graduate from high school and then leave the nest for college, a gap year, or a myriad of other adventures. With only a few windows of time left, you may be wondering how to spend this year’s spring break with your family.
More than four years after Airbnb pledged to verify all of its listings, the company said Monday it will soon have nearly 1.5 million verified listings, and that badges will be pinned to listings that have completed the process.
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Listening to Idina Menzel sing is pure joy anywhere. Listening to her sing in the intimate La Jolla Playhouse in San Diego will give you goosebumps and bring you to tears. The Tony Award winning superstar is making her debut there in Redwood, a must-see world-premiere musical whose next stop, in the tradition of 36 other La Jolla Playhouse productions, including Jersey Boys, Come From Away and The Outsiders, has to be Broadway.
The Indian Wells Open is my favorite U.S. tennis event, bar none. The Hyatt Regency Indian Wells Resort & Spa is a stone’s throw from the venue, and its beautiful desert grounds are a welcoming respite from the throngs trying to get a glimpse of Rafa (who will play on the evening of March 7th). Why is Indian Wells so special? There’s a paradoxical mellow and electric vibe there. A short drive from Palm Springs, California and set in the comparatively verdant Colorado Desert, it’s a place for meditation, introspection, self-care — and world-class tennis. The Indian Wells Open, AKA the BNP Paribas Open (BNP Paribas sponsors the event) is the most popular tennis event in the world aside from the four major slams, but the venue, Indian Wells Tennis Garden (owned by Larry Ellison since 2009), is so nicely designed that it never feels as crowded as it is. Food options are remarkably good (think Nobu sushi), and VIP and corporate boxes are close enough to the action (unlike at many venues) with excellent catering and service.