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Not just cheap beer and old buildings: an arty weekend in Prague
25.03.2024 - 12:55 / theguardian.com / Art
For decades, cheap flights, nightclubs and booze made Prague one of Europe’s stag party capitals. City officials have spoken out about tourists’ drunken behaviour, but Prague remains popular among men dressed as Smurfs drinking 50 koruna (£1.70) pints of pilsner.
I arrive on the train from Dresden, the German city just north of the Czech border, shortly before the launch of a new night train route. On 25 March the European Sleeper between Brussels and Berlin extends to Prague, arriving at Hlavní Nádraží, Prague’s main central station, at 10.56am.
I’m here to find the best things to do in the Czech Republic’s capital, and surrounding countryside, away from the city centre tourist sights.
I’m staying at Miss Sophie’s Downtown hotel (huge rooms, exposed piping, staff who don’t mind me taking socially unacceptable amounts of boiled sweets from reception), just a five-minute walk from the station. I take a tram to Kunsthalle Praha art gallery to meet Ivana Goossen, director of the white-walled exhibition complex, which opened in 2022 and today resembles a dream-state library. I’d heard that in this city of flowing beer and grand museums, Kunsthalle represents a more contemporary side of Prague culture.
READ, a books-themed exhibition by Berlin-based artists Elmgreen & Dragset, has taken over most of the gallery and runs until 22 April. A sculpture of a chimp stands on a pile of hardbacks. Visitors peruse a display of progressive books banned in Florida. A man sitting alone at a long table calmly writes in a notebook. “What he’s doing is actually an art performance,” says Goossen.
Kunsthalle was converted from a 1930s electricity substation by local entrepreneurs Petr and Pavlína Pudil. Goossen says that after the 1989 Velvet Revolution, privately owned arts institutions were initially slow to emerge.
“There’s been a process of maturing,” she says. “Certain practices normal in the western world, where you see culture supported privately [with private investment in public art spaces], weren’t so typical. That’s changing, and people are recognising that Prague isn’t just about old architecture.”
Kunsthalle had about 110,000 visitors in its first year, attracting more local people than tourists. “We’re in the old centre, by the Prague Castle steps,” says Ivana, “but we’re showing that there is contemporary culture here.”
North of the centre, Holešovice, is one of Prague’s more gentrified districts, and home to the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art. I admire its moody nude sculptures before lunch at the newly opened Slice Slice Baby restaurant (recommended as “the best pizza slice in town” by one of Goossen’s colleagues). The pizza is excellent: co-owner Kateřina Jakusová tells me that the tomatoes are imported
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