Off Season Italy: Restaurateur Francesco Panella’s Guide to Eating Your Way Through Rome in Fall

06.04.2024 - 10:27 / cntraveler.com / Anne Hathaway

This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy's most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.

Francesco Panella

Roman, with a capital “R,” Francesco Panella has visited over 150 world capitals. And the more he has seen, the more Roman he feels. Every time he returns to his hometown, he recognizes the extraordinary beauty of the city, with all its flaws and precariousness. "I wouldn't trade any city in the world for mine, and I’ve visited many places," he says. A food entrepreneur, he’s the restaurateur behind Antica Pesa, a trattoria in Trastevere that’s more than 100 years old (a favorite of Russell Crowe and Anne Hathaway) and has an outpost in Brooklyn. He’s also a television personality—his show, "Little Big Italy," is now in its seventh year—and the author of books on Italian food around the world.

Is there ever a quiet time to visit Rome?

In Rome, there really is no more off-season. People struggle to find hotel rooms even in January, February, and March. It’s a remarkable revival because visitors have discovered it’s a livable city year-round. Sure, it gets a little colder in January, but the thermometer never drops below 15 degrees. December is more of an off-time than the rest of the year—though the word “off” isn’t entirely accurate. There are just fewer people.

Grab a stool at the buzzy bar at Roscioli

Roscioli's carbonara hasn't changed in years

What do you love most about Rome?

I like Rome at night, particularly between 10:30 p.m. and 11:30 p.m. The restaurants begin to empty, and so do the piazzas. After that, the nightlife starts. At that time, I go home—preferably on foot to enjoy that special time. I also like Rome in the morning, very early when the city is still asleep. It’s one of the few metropolises with six million inhabitants that slows down in the morning, and it’s because Romans never tire of its visual beauty. You’ll often find cars stopped in front of the most beautiful sights, like the Gianicolo in front of the Spanish Embassy. Romans love their city, but they also kind of hate it. They’re always angry with Rome, but they would never leave—they are the city's guardians. They can speak ill of Rome, but they won't let anyone else do so. I’m a true Roman: Woe to anyone who slanders my Rome! It would be like insulting my mother or grandmother.

Come December, what’s your favorite local restaurant?

I often go to neighborhood osterias just to support them in my own small way. I like places that are not famous. I'm used to gourmet restaurants, but places like Cesare al Pellegrino—a small 25-seater in Piazza Farnese—reassure me. I often stop at Roscioli's. If they're full, I eat