Hotel Chalet Mirabell is one of those places that has you at hello. It’s a short drive up the hill from the Dolomite mountain town of Merano, but the sanctum of the lobby is a world of its own. And the view that greets you—dazzling.
A wall of windows gives way to scenes of the Italian and Austrian mountains in the distance, the hills in the foreground, and the hotel’s gardens, meadows and pool up front. If you arrive in the late afternoon, as I did, everything is tinged pink. After the papers are signed, guests are steered toward some sofas, glasses of bubbles appear, and a cherry red Berkel ham slicer is wheeled over.
As curls of speck pile onto a plate, you can’t help but feel like you’ve arrived somewhere special. And you have. Hotel Chalet Mirabell lies midway between Merano (Meran in German, as most things are in this part of Italy), with its historic sites, and the base of the Meran 2000 ski resort, which also has glorious trails for hiking, biking and ski touring.
It’s a place that feels like it has a strong personal connection to someone, and it does. Owners Christine and Michael Reiterer grew up in the region, and in their parents’ hotels before working in hospitality around the world. For their wedding in 1999, their parents gave them a plot of land in Hafling, and Chalet Mirabell opened in 2004 as a small Alpine residence with 16 rooms.
Since then, Christine gave birth to their son, Martin, who is now part of the business, and the couple acquired more land, built more rooms, and created one of the largest wellness zones in the region, with multiple relaxation rooms, and “room of tranquility, a unique natural heated bathing pond, and an entire floor dedicated to saunas.
While there’s a case to be made for the Alpine Lifestyle Restaurant with its luxuriously laden buffets, it’s arguable that the sauna floor is the spiritual heart of the hotel. It’s also worth paying attention to the briefing, as the clientele in this part of the world can be very serious about their sauna etiquette. And while swimsuits are required in some areas, particularly those where children are welcome, they’re optional if not strictly verboten in many others. You get used to it quickly.
Besides, there’s entertainment. Hotel director Jasmin Ladurner was shocked that I had never heard of the aufguss before my stay. Now it’s a central pillar of the European spa experience, and the role of the “sauna master” has gone far beyond simply dousing the hot rocks with water and essential oils and waving a towel to disperse the steam. Now they’re full-on dance performers. (I have no excuse, as this is indeed a thing. There are national championships and an international world cup, and the New York Times just reported on the trend,
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