Jenny Phenix was ready to spend the rest of her life on a cruise ship.
03.09.2024 - 17:27 / cntraveler.com
There's nothing quite like an adventure through wild Britain—sprawling landscapes can be taken in, bracing weather braved, and wonderful wildlife spotted right on these isles. Plus, of course, there's no shortage of smart places to stay and delicious things to eat. Below, our London-based team round up their favorite staycations right now—trips within the United Kingdom that can and should of course be appropriated for inspiration by anyone visiting from, say, stateside. Read on and receive some rural revelations for your next trip across the pond.
A sea safari camp in the Hebrides, where seals and porpoises await.
On a curious early summer weekend, when Glasgow is somehow hotter than Madrid, I find myself waking in a bell tent on Jura’s wild northeast, going for a morning dip in mirror-like water among yawning grey seals—and wondering why I’ve spent all these years escaping my home country. I’m on a short version of the Hebridean Sea Safari run by Glenapp Castle, a place of turreted grandeur on a magical but oft-missed stretch of the Ayrshire coast, best known as the birthplace of Robert Burns. While the sea safari is bookended by nights in the grand but not impersonal old hotel—with its croquet lawn, Victorian glasshouse and resident bagpiper—the Jura setup is off-grid safari-style, in an idyllic spot not far from the Barnhill house where George Orwell wrote 1984. Getting there on the hotel’s little 12-seater boat is an adventure, via Ailsa Craig, the volcanic plug island known for its 40,000 seabirds and the unique granite used curling stones.
The camp on Jura
Knowledgeable local skipper Sandy Campbell navigates us to picnics on lonely islets, drams at Islay’s lovely whitewashed Ardbeg distillery, and a trip to a 6th-century chapel on the haunting island of Eilean Mor MacCormick. Pods of porpoises frolic, and a playful minke whale shimmers in the afternoon sun. We’re too late for the usual activity of fishing mackerel for our supper, but a three-course dinner with a sublime local rack of lamb is remarkable given that electricity comes from a generator. Afterwards, we get philosophical with drinks round the fire, our little group including Paul Szkiler, Glenapp’s energetic Yorkshire-born owner, a born-again Christian who is also a social impact-driven equity investor in West Africa, especially Sierra Leone.
The camp at Jura
The boat from the Ardbeg distillery on Islay
The chat stays with me for a night of deep baby-sleep in my cosy tent, lit by a candelabra of tea lights; and over a full Scottish breakfast (English plus haggis and black pudding) after my swim the next day. The seals are impassive as we leave for the mainland via the Corryvreckan whirlpool and a sighting of nesting sea eagles—but I
Jenny Phenix was ready to spend the rest of her life on a cruise ship.
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Greg Cormier. (Photo Credit: Aurora Expeditions)
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In a bid to clamp down on overtourism and protect places of interest, popular holiday destinations across Europe and beyond have introduced various forms of a “tourist tax”. In recent years, this has come into play in destinations such as Venice, Lake Como, Brussels, and parts of Japan—and now, UK hotspots are following suit.
I can’t imagine a more versatile boot for traveling than the Chelsea boot. First made in the UK during the Victorian era (possibly by Queen Victoria's very own shoemaker), Chelsea boots were then worn for both riding and walking. In the more modern context, these easy-to-slip-on boots experienced a comeback in the 1950s and ’60s when they were worn all over London’s Chelsea neighborhood by the likes of the Rolling Stones.
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