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A culinary guide to Lima, from ceviches to saltados
24.01.2024 - 09:17 / nationalgeographic.com
Lima defies easy culinary categorisation. Peru’s capital, set above the towering cliffs of the Costa Verde, overlooks a sweep of Pacific coast from the gritty port city of Callao to the fishing village of Chorrillos. A city, a port and a gateway to Latin America, Lima doesn’t have a distinct geographical cuisine, it has dozens of them. Regional ingredients and cultural heritage, both ancient and modern, all mingle together, creating new combinations of flavours.
Ceviche, Peru’s national dish, is a good starting point when trying to understand the enormous complexity of Limeño food. The recipe has undergone multiple transformations since early Peruvians marinated fish in what’s thought to have been the juice of the tumbo — a relative of passion fruit — to preserve it. During the period when the city was the capital of the Spanish Viceroyalty of Peru (1542-1821), colonialists gradually introduced limes and onions into the recipe. In the 1970s, Japanese chefs in the city adapted the dish and shortened the marinating time from hours to seconds. Today, it comes in hundreds of different forms. It might be made with sea bass or sole, but it could also include black clams or sea urchin. Try it at a lunch-only cevicheria such as La Mar or at a fine-dining restaurant like Mayta (both in Lima’s upscale Miraflores neighbourhood), or from a street cart at the vast, indoor Surquillo market.
Besides ceviche, some consider the city’s most emblematic cuisine to be comida criolla, or creole food. This arose during the colonial era and was a blend of the culinary traditions of native communities, Spanish settlers and the enslaved Africans who did most of their cooking. Most of these recipes — including ají de gallina (spiced chicken stew), and the fried rice and bean dish, tacu tacu — are what many Limeños eat at home, yet only a few restaurants specialise in them. Those that do include the classic El Rincón Que No Conoces in the central Lince district, and more modern Isolina near the city’s south coast. Others might think of pollo a la brasa, sold at the ubiquitous rotisserie chicken shacks, as the city’s favourite meal, but whittling down Lima’s best-loved cuisine is a tough call, thanks to a rich roster of favourites. Other contenders include the Cantonese-Peruvian food sold at the thousands of mostly no-frills Chifa restaurants you’ll find in the city, as well as Nikkei, the natural fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cooking that’s done more to shape modern Peruvian restaurants in Lima than any other.
Combine all of this with migrants from the Andes and Amazon who, for decades, have continued to set up restaurants specialising in dishes from their home regions, a bar scene benefitting from a new wave of artisan
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