A taste of Taiwan: why Tainan, Hualien and Hsinchu are cities to savour

16.02.2024 - 10:17 / nationalgeographic.com

Taiwan, a series of small subtropical islands sat in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, is a destination known for its natural beauty. But these islands are also home to one of East Asia’s most exciting culinary scenes — one that has been influenced not only by the region's unique climate and lush landscapes, but also its rich, multi-faceted history. First inhabited by Austronesian-speaking Indigenous groups, Taiwan has acted as a cultural crossroads for over 500 years, having played host to Japanese, Dutch, Spanish and Chinese settlers. Now, Taiwan's streets sing with sizzling street food, are lined with world-class restaurants and boast dishes that cement the region's cuisine as a melting pot of ingredients and cooking techniques. 

With its spectacular street vendors and long list of Michelin-starred spots, the capital, Taipei, is often the go-to destination for food-focused visitors to Taiwan, many of whom are tagging a few days onto a longer East Asia trip. However, the country's extensive rail and bus network have made it incredibly easy to travel beyond the capital and discover some of Taiwan's lesser-visited culinary hotspots. Take the time to sample delicacies such as stinky tofu in the vast night markets of Tainan, learn about Indigenous Taiwanese culture through the cuisine in Hualien, or experience the coastal winds that make for perfectly dried persimmons in Hsinchu. There's plenty to savour in Taiwan.

One of the island’s oldest cities, Tainan is a must-visit for those wanting to learn about Taiwanese history, with traditional shrines, temples and museums located around every corner. But it’s also home to a dynamic, ever-evolving street food scene, with numerous night markets, such as Wusheng Night Market and Garden Night Market, frequenting large spaces outside the city centre. 

Packed with vendors and brightly lit stalls, these night markets are the perfect place to sample some of Tainan’s signature delicacies, including oyster omelettes, swordfish stews, stinky tofu and even danzai noodles — wheat noodles in a pork and shrimp broth, topped with meat sauce. Markets’ opening days and times can vary, so check schedules online before arriving.

For those who prefer to stay central to the city, plenty of small restaurants and cafes can be found around Tainan’s historic centre, offering everything from shrimp rice to shaved ice and bubble tea. There’s even unique old-house bars that blend traditional Taiwanese tea into cocktails. What’s more, the religious nature of the area means that Tainan is particularly friendly to vegetarians and vegans, as observant Taiwanese Buddhists often opt to eschew meat, onion and garlic.

Located on Taiwan’s mountainous east coast, Hualien is known as the gateway to