After snorkeling with the dazzling fish of Palau’s crystalline waters, I returned to my hotel and gratefully accepted a hibiscus lemonade and a cold lemongrass towel—a needed balm after baking in the equatorial sun. At the spa, the therapist treated my burns with a bespoke massage fusing Palauan remedies with common-sense aloe. I woke to a vermilion sunset after being lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the waves.