This story is part of the Great Bagel Boom, a Bon Appétit series celebrating the vast creative expanses of bagel culture across America—because yes, you can find truly wonderful bagels outside of New York now.
On a recent trip to LA, I drove by one of those block-wrapping lines that’s the telltale sign of a meet-and-greet or maybe a sneaker drop. I circled the block and got a glimpse of my celebrity: Courage Bagels. Crowds of devotees spilled onto the sidewalk, eating their long-awaited meals at tiny outdoor tables under sun umbrellas. Their open-face, pleasantly misshapen Montreal-style bagels balanced hunks of cheddar, rosy slices of salted tomato, cream cheese, and pearls of plump roe, all hidden under wisps of dill.
As you can probably gather, Courage doesn’t follow in the steps of the classic New York bagel. And across the country, similar lines are forming for creative, often-unconventional bagels. At Benchwarmers in Raleigh, North Carolina, bagels come topped with duck rillettes and sour cherry cream cheese or country ham and fancy butter. The New Orleans bagel shop Flour Moon calls its open-face bagels “tartines” and tops them with appropriate panache: roasted carrot spread, duqqa, sunflower seed butter, tahini.
As a trickle of buzzy new bagel shops turns into a full-on bagel boom, bakers aren’t looking to mimic New York quite the way they might have 10 years ago. The New York bagel is as revered as ever, but new approaches are taking shape from Los Angeles to Philadelphia. Bakers are blending influences and regional styles, getting creative with toppings, and treating bagels like a special event.
Whether you prefer them puffy and shiny or dense and chewy, there’s never been a better time to eat bagels. These are our very favorite ones—outside of New York—sourced from Bon Appétit staffers and trusted contributors. You’ll find that some of these bagels do take inspiration from stalwarts like New York and Montreal, but mostly, they defy neat categorization. That’s part of what makes them so great. —Elazar Sontag, Bon Appétit restaurant editor
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