When travel journalist Jenn Rice decided to spend July and August in Italy and Croatia last year, she wasn’t expecting to be spending most of her time indoors. “It was very very hot, so I booked museum tickets during peak days or just lounged around in my room with a spritz and a book until the sun set.” In Dubrovnik she tried escaping to the sea for a cool dip, but everyone else had the same idea—resulting in sweaty, overcrowded beaches. “In Rome, gelato melted faster than the speed of light,” she says.
Major attractions, like the Spanish Steps in Rome, were thronged by international tourists and vacationing Europeans alike.
Rome and Dubrovnik weren’t the only European destinations overcome with heat. To travel in Europe in the summer of 2023 was to experience first-hand a single season of contrasting extremes. Temperatures swung from hot and dry to cold and wet, and heatwaves broke out across several of the most heavily touristed destinations, with temperatures reaching upwards of 100°F. In Northern Greece, wildfires broke out—the worst experienced there in 20 years—destroying homes, forests, and vineyards.
Yet in the midst of it all, the continent also saw record-breaking tourist numbers—the highest since pre-pandemic levels—even as hotel prices swelled and airfares hit peaks. From scenic escapes like Bellagio in Como and Taormina in Sicily (where the White Lotus effect was on full display) to bucket-list cities like Paris and Madrid, much of touristed Europe was completely overwhelmed.
“We had people calling us from Athens and Rome asking us to get them out [to somewhere cooler in Europe], because it was too hot and too crowded,” recalls Jan Sortland, founder of Scandinavia specialists Norwegian Adventures.
International tourists weren’t the only ones thronging these spots. According to the European Travel Commission, most Europeans took their vacations before the peak month of August, with Italy and France being their top destinations. This resulted in packed crowds at all the major attractions. For John Canning, an LA-based executive who traveled to Paris in July, the crowds were eye-opening. “We didn’t anticipate that everything we would want to see was sold out. We only got Musée d’Orsay tickets through our concierge at a substantial premium and could not get into the Louvre full stop,” he says.
Rice says the summer taught her to plan her travel differently this year: “I’m going to try and do coastal Italy early in May, and if I decide to travel in Europe this summer it will be either Asturias in Northern Spain or the Julian Alps in Slovenia to keep cool."
She’s not alone—according to the travel specialists we spoke with, there’s an increased interest
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