Amaranths Were Nearly Wiped Out by Colonization. Now, They’re Making a Return.
Around March, the valleys to the north and east of Cuzco, Peru, begin to gleam with pink and crimson — “crowned with amaranth,” the poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow once wrote, “as with flame.” Native to South America, this scentless species of amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus), distinctive for its tentacle-like inflorescences, is prized for the nutty-tasting, protein-rich seeds that develop from its flowers. (Its leaves are also edible.) Known in Peru by its Quechua name, , it was domesticated by Andean peoples some 3,000 years ago and later became a source of sustenance for the Incas and their contemporaries. (A different variety of amaranth was grown by the Aztecs of Mexico.) But the 16th-century Spanish colonizers, writes Jamaica Kincaid in “An Encyclopedia of Gardening for Colored Children” (2024), forced the Incas and the Aztecs to abandon their crops and replace them “with barley, wheat and other European grains.”