Seeing Saba from the plane for the first time, I thought of the "Star Wars" scene where Obi-Wan Kenobi says, "That's no moon" upon seeing the Death Star. Saba, you see, is no typical island: Dominated by a dormant volcano (Mount Scenery, which last erupted in 1640), it rises abruptly from the Caribbean Sea, its cliffs demanding attention from above.