Vaughan Mabee is a mad genius. I mean this as the highest compliment. The New Zealand chef asks helicopter pilots to drop him off in the middle of nowhere so he can forage, hunt and cook. He researches the molecular structure of animal proteins. He shoots deer and pheasants from his back porch and serves them to guests. He cooks with the creativity, assurance and technique of someone who spent decades in the kitchens of Noma and Martin Berasategui. He sleeps about two hours a night.