When the founder of Buenos Aires' most celebrated restaurant, Don Julio, invites you to spend a few days eating with him, you go. That's how Mexican chef Elena Reygadas found herself in Argentina last August. “Pablo [Rivera] told me, You don't have to cook, but I want you to see our most important day—the carneada," says Reygadas. "It's when he and his partner Guido [Tassi] kill the pigs and make salami for their restaurant, but it's also a party for the people they love."