Cycling tips

With cyclists in the French capital outnumbering carbon-spewing motorists and short-haul domestic flights outlawed in 2023, getting around la belle France has never been so green.

Los Angeles is brighter once the sun goes down. Downtown, Koreatown, WeHo, Venice—the city’s neighborhoods sharpen into blades of colorful, electric lights come nightfall. Cycling down Venice Boulevard after dark, my field of vision feels more focused: I see car lights, bright billboards and illuminated gas stations, and then, from a distance, bikes flashing with lights, en masse in a car park on the corner of Centinela Avenue. It’s The Mixed Race, a high-speed, women-led public cycling group that meets here every Thursday night—and this evening, I’m joining them for a ride.

It’s a noise the former railway tunnel probably hadn’t heard in a while. Somewhere in the dark is a hooting part-owl, part-forlorn steam train. My sister Ele has stopped on her bike to blow determinedly across her cupped hands like a flute. As she recreates this long-gone sound, I pedal on through the cool, damp air. Water drips steadily from the stalactite-coated brickwork as my front light illuminates pedestrians and their dogs looming from the echoing shadows.

Padua, in northern Italy's Veneto region, is the site of one of the world’s greatest art treasures that should be on every art lover’s bucket list. The Scrovegni Chapel houses the extraordinary 14th-century fresco cycle by Giotto that covers all the walls and ceilings. Despite having such a masterpiece and being a lovely small city, filled with history, culture and culinary delights, Padua is far less touristy than other Italian other art cities like Florence, Rome or nearby Venice. It’s a real hidden gem. And, at just 25 miles from Venice and easy to reach from Marco Polo airport, Padua is an easy day trip or addition to a Venice itinerary.

Denmark is a haven for cyclists of all abilities, with 11,000km of marked cycle routes to ride. From adventurous cycling on multi-day trips that take in the country’s most varied scenery, to day trips and wine tours, these are the country’s best bike routes for everyone, from hobbyists to expert-level athletes. To make it extra easy, accommodation options line the routes, including simple campsites and shelters, run by the Danish Nature Agency and offered for free or almost free, as well as B&Bs and hotels especially set up for cyclists, with bike rooms, e-bike charging stations and rooms made available for fixing your bike as you go. Aktiv Danmark has a list of bike-friendly accommodation and there is also a group of Danish Bike Hotels that have bike facilities. Bike rental is available in major cities and towns all over the country.

I pulled into the tiny hamlet of Hirase, in Japan’s Gifu prefecture, at the peak of the day’s heat. I’d just climbed several thousand feet through Hakusan National Park, on a twisting, waterfall-lined road, before eventually descending into the shimmering fantasy landscape of Shirakawa-go, an almost Tolkien-esque small village—and UNESCO heritage site—comprised of centuries-old thatched, peaked-roof farmhouses in the gassho-zukuri style. Replenishing myself with a black-sesame ice cream cone, I made the last push towards my destination. My cycling computer eventually told me “destination reached,” but all I could see was a succession of closed businesses lining a small street. Seeking shade, I flopped against a security gate.

In many ways, the Netherlands is a year-round destination, with each season offering its own charms. Spring sees fields full of tulips in bloom. Summer spells long days at sandy beaches along the coast and on the Wadden Sea islands, and as autumn turns to winter, the darkening chill invites you to embrace the Dutch quality of gezelligheid (conviviality, coziness) at atmospheric cafes. Cycling is a Dutch way of life, while festivals fill the calendar throughout the year.

The Netherlands packs so much within its compact borders – from its grand cities to green spaces, picturesque waterways and miles of coastline – that it’s easy to take in numerous unique and memorable experiences throughout the country, even on a short trip.

Begun in 2009, London’s Tweed Run, a quietly extraordinary fashion-and-cycling event, is billed with only a wee bit of hyperbole by its organizers as “world renowned for being the most sartorially impeccable event ever to take place on two wheels.” And it just may be that. The 13th annual event, held on April 27, event lived up to its billing.

Slovenia is often called small.

Hosting the Winter Olympics in 1964 — and again in 1976 when Denver backed out after originally securing the games — transformed Innsbruck into a superstar for snow and ice sports.

Without question, you can spend plenty of money in Slovenia. In every corner of the country, there are enough high-end resorts, wellness centers, hotels, vineyards and restaurants to make any five-star visitor feel at home. But it's also an ideal destination for budget travelers.

The Eternal City is well known for its historic sites as well as its eternal traffic jams, as many of Rome’s citizens and tourists get around by individual motorized vehicles. But a new initiative to boost cycling, walking, and public transport and how they all interconnect, hopes to change that.

Scandinavians don’t always need to board charter flights to enjoy a summer beach vacation. In fact, they don’t even need a car. Known as the sunshine island, Bornholm invites visitors to experience its beautiful beaches and rustic villages for an authentic Scandinavian summer vacation.

In Japan, it’s not hard to find locals bathing in a public onsen and immersing themselves in the forest—wellness is woven into the fabric of everyday life. With nature considered divine in the Japanese indigenous religions of Buddhism and Shintoism, wellness in Japan is built around the prevalence of volcanoes, forests and hot spring pools. While you might see ‘forest bathing’ offered in the West, in Japan, it is more than a new-age wellness treatment, and considered a form of preventative healthcare. Likewise, ‘sand bathing’ is not a light-hearted children’s beach activity, but instead a therapeutic treatment whose benefits have been espoused for over 300 years.

With over 200km of cycle paths and 300 days of balmy sunshine, Valencia is an ideal biking city that’s entirely flat, spanning a grid system with access to coastal boardwalks, expansive boulevards and cinematic nature parks. 

It’s that time of year when Bostonians might see Chef Jody Adams riding her collapsible red Brompton bicycle around town to check in with her empire of seven —soon to be eight—area restaurants. The two-time James Beard Award winner says it’s a great way to zip around Boston’s notorious traffic, and even make new friends.

It’s so dark, it makes no difference whether my eyes are closed or open. The only sound is breathing and a faint ripple when I weightlessly shift position in the salt-laden, skin-warm fluid. Inside an egg-shaped pod at Float in the Forest, one of my personal nightmares (being left alone for an hour with my own thoughts and no distractions) turns out to be a strange, peaceful experience, where time is condensed and space expands. Initially sceptical, my husband, Luke, also emerges from his pod and declares the experience “profoundly relaxing as few things are” (£60, book ahead).

A lifetime of living in Ireland has given me some insight into the vagaries of my home country, beginning with the number one rule: never assume anything. This is a country that delights in confounding even your most comfortable expectations about pretty much everything, from the weather to the quality of the wifi.

Climbing towards the basilica from the river, we explored a zigzag of secret staircases and hidden courtyards in Lyon. These traboules are hard to follow, and so we had to look out for the metal plates that mark some of the entrances. There’s almost no direct way up from the river, but these routes, originally for the city’s silk workers, reveal charming back streets and private courtyards, into which visitors can stare. At the top, breathless, we loved the Basilique Nôtre-Dame de Fourvière. In the crypt we made another exciting discovery: a huge mosaic of the sea battle of Lepanto, a site we’d recently visited in Greece. David Innes-Wilkin

When you can gaze on the salt pans of Guérande, near Nantes, cycle through lavender fields in Drôme, in the south-east, and bask in the splendour of the Cirque de Gavarnie in the Pyrénees, you have to wonder how France got so lucky with its diverse landscapes. Most recently, the volcanic landscape of the Massif Central captured my heart. The chain of extinct volcanoes runs south from the highest, Le Puy de Dôme (there’s a rack railway to the top) near Clermont-Ferrand.